Traditionally, the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday is a day of
revelry, the last “hoorah” if you will, before fasting through Lent. Italy, Brazil, Spain and Portugal are
all famous for their Carnaval celebrations. As it turns out, Panama is as well.
In Panama, one day is not enough for Carnaval
celebrations. Oh no. They extend Carnaval to four days, full
of baile tipicos, reinas, parades and water fights. After missing the festivities on Saturday – I had gone into
Panama City to run errands and use internet – Mama Olga and I enjoyed a
leisurely cup (or four) of coffee and I mentioned to her that my friends had
expressed desires to see the watery festivities that were carnaval in
Panama. We poured ourselves another
cup of coffee – Panama is hell on my caffeine addiction – before she beckoned
me up to her mother’s house. She
added to bring my camera – so long as it was waterproof.
Before leaving, a friend had given me an old go-pro camera
with a waterproof case. If you
don’t know much about these cameras (and if you know my big brother, there’s no
way that you can’t), they’re cameras without a viewfinder nor a viewing screen
(my host nephew was not a fan), but can take movies, time lapse or just plain
photos.
I brought that camera up with me as the family looked
sneaky. They had me sit, offered
me something to drink and I thought, for a second, that nothing would
happen. All of a sudden, three of
the boys in the family came up behind me and threw buckets of cold water all
over me. I knew better than to
dress in actual clothes this day, instead wearing shorts and a tank top –
Carnaval is the only time it’s culturally appropriate to dress thusly as a
gringa – and soon, I was soaked.
The day was full of water fights and in the afternoon, a
water truck came in to town. Los
Mortales, apparently, is known for Sunday Carnaval festivities, and people came
in for the culecos (water trucks) from all over the area. We danced to tipica and reggaeton all
afternoon, until it started to get cooler. I then returned home to shower and change for the baile that
night, along with a presentation of the Reinas.
Every carnaval, three or four girls are “nominated” as
queens, and with them, they have their own princesses as a court. After the presentation, the court then
danced for us and a group of judges elected the Los Mortales queen. While there was some controversy with
the queen who won, my host nice was the princess to the queen who won, so my
family wasn’t complaining.
The next night, we went into El Espino to watch Kimberly
again be a princess, this time for the Turquoise queen. She stood and danced on the large float
as everyone in the town followed it around, singing, dancing and cheering. After the late night the night before
and little sleep, I was exhausted, as was Kimberly. After a sudden stop, she fell off her pedestal, and we left
for home almost immediately afterward.
We all stumbled to bed and enjoyed a mellow Tuesday.
Four days of Carnaval is excessive.
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