7.1.13

Black Mud, the Black Keys


Despite the comparative luxuries I live with (electricity, water and cell phone signal – usually), my Peace Corps site is uniquely difficult to get to.  Between the terrible road, finicky bus drivers and the tides, leaving my site is always an adventure.  An adventure I love, but sometimes, I wish I didn’t have to constantly bring a “just in case” change of clothes.

The first time I arrived in my site, the tide was halfway between high and low.  I asked my community guide, Pompo, if this was high or low, and he said low.  Little did I realize was “low” meant it was getting lower – with all my bags, we had timed my arrival perfectly.  The little fishing boat wove in and out of the mangrove forest, until it opened into an estuary.  Mangroves covered each side, from the mainland out from our inlet, and a forest on the inland side of the island.  For a girl from California – where our rocky coast doesn’t encourage mangrove populations and our cooler climate makes it impossible for them – this site took my breath away.  Pompo turned to me and laughed.

“¿Impresionante, no?”  He asked.

Oblivious (until recently when he pointed it out to me) that he was making fun of me, my jaw was on the bottom of the boat and I could barely nod.  “California es hermosa, pero no tenemos cosas – y vistas – así.”  It wasn’t until I showed him pictures of California’s flora and fauna that he believed me.  Our trees grow up, mangroves grow out, expanding until they take over everything.  Every few years, he told me, ANAM goes through and trims back the overgrowth to let boats continue to pass through.

A few weeks later, I prepared to go home for the briefest of trips.  With my big blue backpack on my back, I got in the boat, ready to catch the 7:30 bus to Las Tablas, the 9:30 bus to Panama, and a cab to the airport.  At the dock at 6:50 on a Sunday seemed like enough time, right?  Until I looked at the water level.  The tide was out – I realized I’d have to walk.  Lucky for me, I wore my big jeans.  The taxista drove me until he couldn’t anymore and I looked at him.  I still knew no one’s name, but everyone knew mine.  “Ana, tiene que caminar,” he laughed at me.

Oh.  Well, shit.

I took off my shoes and rolled up my pants, slowly stepping into the mud.  My foot sank.  One of the things they don’t tell you about mangroves, in all the beautiful stories they tell you, is that they are integral to building new land.  When land is new, however, it’s weak.  You sink deep or not at all, just depending on where you step and where the long, thin branch-like-roots extend.  Not knowing the pathways, I sank.  I was laughed at a lot when I first got to site.

Months later, I arrived back to the dock after grocery shopping in the local town, and water was no where to be seen.  I rolled up my pants, I repositioned my bags, and I began to walk.  By this time, I was beginning to get the hang of things – I knew where to step, I knew how to carry my bags so the plastic wouldn’t stretch and break.  Fifteen, twenty minutes passed, and there was still not enough water to support a boat.  Finally, I was at the end of our stream.  I waved across the estuary at the boats and immediately, they came to pick me up.  I was hot and sweaty – and back at my host family’s house, there was no water.  That’s always the way of things, isn’t it?  No shower for Annie, I guess.

I finally fell into the groove.  When I got my own house, I downloaded tide tables, checking when high tides coincided with busses and planned my trips around them.  Recently, we had a meeting with local government authorities.  The meetings began at 10:00 am or so, and a few days before, I checked my table.  -0.6 feet at 8:00.  My bus left at 7:30.  Would I bring a change of clothes or leave early.  I opted to leave a day early, at the highest of high tides, catch a ride from a friend to the local town and spend the night with the Volunteer there.  And in the height of irony, the agency I was meeting with cancelled the morning of the meeting.  I didn’t have to over plan after all.

Ask anyone with a hike in site, and they’ll say it’s a mixed blessing – though some like it more than others.  I wouldn’t change my site for anything, hiking through the mangroves at low tide, with the chitra biting all your exposed skin, I might hesitate before saying that I loved it.  I can’t impulsively decide to go to a baile in town, or randomly visit friends in nearby towns.  Yet, I never get drop by guests.  My space is my own.  I’m the only gringa on the island, and I like it that way.  The challenges of getting in and out discourage the weaker expatriates, so despite a periodic tourist or four, I’m completely immersed in Panamanian culture.  And I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world.

And I have my own beach.  How can I ever complain?

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